Good Eats in San Sebastian (Quinta y Ultima Parte)

"I myself."  Ni Neu which translates to "I myself" in Basque is located in the Kursaal building facing the east.  You can sit inside or out on the boardwalk but be sure to ask for a view because it is exquisite.  I love to people watch the hundreds of pedestrians on the boardwalk with the Cantabric Sea as a backdrop and if you are lucky, you will have a clear view of the sun setting in the horizon.

Ni Neu (Discovered June 2011)
Restaurante ni neu
Avda de la Zurriola, 1
20002 Donostia - San Sebastián
http://travel.nytimes.com//2011/08/07/travel/36-hours-in-san-sebastin-spain.html

Though it has been several year that I have eaten here, I haven't forgotten the best dessert I may haver ever tried in my lifetime.  They call it "Torrija Empapada."  It is a cake resembling warm, moist pound cake served over carmel with vanilla ice cream.  Words cannot express what you will experience after one bite of this.

The food, atmosphere, and service were phenomenal but the dessert is the reason I continued to come back a second and a third time during my trip to San Sebastian.  Helpful Hint: If you only want to try the dessert, order it at the bar.

Outstanding Chocolaterias

Chocolate.

Mmmm... what can be better than chococlate?  If you travel to Spain do yourself a favor and try the Chocolate con Churros (Churros with Chocolate).  My favorite is to go to a Chocolateria, meaning that they specialize in chocolate, and order a side of churros to dip. 

In Madrid,  the best, but most tourist-trendy is Chocolateria San Gines.  I discovered this little spot on my trip in June 2007.  It is tucked behind a church right off of Calle Arenal in a very central area of Madrid just off of Sol.

In Salamanca, the best one is Chocolates Valor.  I discovered it on my trip in July 2012.  They have a fancy menu and can offer you their delicious chocolate in just about every form...but I always go back to a hot cup of thick chocolate and churros. The best thing about Valor is they are located in over 10 cities in Spain.

The practice of eating these is acceptable at any time of the day.  My favorite was for breakfast, snack, or late night. Truth be told, many small bars will also have a churro machine and will serve chocolate too.  It doesn't matter if you can't be in Madrid to try San Gines or in a city that has a Chocolates Valor because the tradition is what is appreciated most.  Sprinkle some sugar over your gooey, chocolatey churro for a real sugar treat.

Good Eats in San Sebastian (Cuarta Parte)

Today's blog will feature a super traditional basque pintxo bar.  Everything from the food to the decor is 100% Basque.  This little bar is very popular among locals and tourists.  In fact, its very common to hear English being spoken among the multitude of American, Irish, and British tourists that swarm here.

The main entrance to Borda Berri

Borda Berri (Discovered June 2011)
Fermin Calbeton 12, 20003 San Sebastian - Donostia, Spain

I don't know how I went so many years without knowing about Borda Berri.  Steve says its because the bar closes for vacation when we usually try to go.  I am just glad that I have eventually been able to experience such an adorable and delicious little bar.  Borda Berri writes their daily pintxos on a chalkboard.  Some dishes are seasonal or vary ingredients but many of the dishes are main staples that  don't change. 

Tomato filled with Guacamole.  They sometimes have the Tomato and Bonito Variety.

Grilled Goat Cheese over Plum Sauce

Risotto with mushrooms.  VERY POPULAR DISH!

Shishkabob but really ribs with the meat falling off the bone.

Gazpatxo (still pronounced Gazpacho) with Jamon de Pato.  They will sometimes serve Gazpatxo with Watermelon.

Scallops with olive oil and garlic sauce

I recommend you try several of Borda Berri's dishes. They are served made to order and are absolutely exquisite.  Their presentation is also very nice for a pintxo.  Though these are considered pintxos, they larger than the average pintxos I have seen.  These mini-dishes can be split with your date if you feel the urge to order one of everything!

Good Eats in San Sebastian (Tercera Parte)

A Fuego Negro is the perfect spot for good "atmoshpere."  It is bar and restaurant black walls, red lighting, and a sexy vibe.  It is chic and modern.  It's a little on the pricey side but its unique dishes are one of a kind and creative.

A Fuego Negro (Discovered June 2007)
My first time here was in 2007 during my first trip to San Sebastian.  I came here at the end of my first night out and was not hungry enough to eat anything.  The couple drinks I had were expensive so Steve and I eliminated this place as a possibility from that point forward.  But in 2011 we resdiscovered it and decided to give it a try again.  A Fuego Negro our expectations the second time around because of their fun dishes such as "Shaken Duck and Fruit Salad", "Beet Bread, Carmelized Beets, and Beet Yogurt Dessert," and "Roast Beef on Cracker with mustard." Their Kobe Beef Sliders are delectable too.  Here is a link of their website with pictures and menus.  http://afuegonegro.com/

Roast beef "Ros Bif" on Cracker from their website

Beet Dessert

Glass of Txakoli

Kobe Beef Sliders and Chips from their website

Good Eats in San Sebastian (Segunda Parte)

Continued...

I logged onto www.tripadvisor.com to be shocked that the next place I am going to mention was only rated 3 out of 5 stars and barely had any reviews.  Shocker!  I really think this is because it is not a typical tourist bar; there is nothing fancy about it and they only serve about 5 items. However, that is exactly what makes this quaint little bar unique and special.

La Mejillonera (Discovered June 2008)
Calle del Puerto 15, San Sebastian - Donostia, Spain


The facade of La Mejillonera

La Mejillonera specializes in mussels.  As mentioned in my previous post, I don't do fishy/risky foods but when my husband and I go to La Mejillonera it works out perfectly because we will split a large portion of "Bravas" (patatas bravas) and he will tyically get his "Tigres" (mussles dish with their signature spicy red sauce).  The "Bravas" dish is so good that it keeps me coming back for more night after night.  I don't know anyone that has tried this dish and was not instantly convinced that the best "Bravas" in all of Spain are right here.  I hear their mussels are amazing too...

This bar is small, crammed, and littered with mussel shells, napkins, and tooth picks. There is something so dirty and charming about this place that you cannot help but like it.  The bartenders shout your order to the kitchen and you eat your meal with a toothpick.  And the best part of it all?  The price.   For less than 5 Euros you can walk out of there with a full stomach and a happy heart.

I recommend La Mejillonera for a mid day snack, an appetizer before dinner, or a late night fix on your way back to your flat. Home of the BEST BRAVAS in the WORLD!


Inside La Mejillonera

Best Eats in San Sebastian (Primera Parte)

I regret to have gone months between posts.  My trip to Spain last summer was amazing, of course.  Most of my memories from that trip are centered on the amazing food my husband and I had the pleasure of devouring in the beautiful city of San Sebastian.  Without doubt, this city has such a unique and delectable cuisine that it seemed like almost every night the tourists and locals swarmed to the Parte Vieja (The Old Part) to eat and drink as much as one could consume. And who could blame them? 

After spending two weeks in San Sebastian for the fourth time in five years, and enjoying the food so much (AGAIN), I have compiled a list of the greatest restaurants and bars.  Not sharing this insider information with all you blog readers out there is simply sinful.  During this trip, I returned to some of my favorite spots and I even came across a couple of new culinary jewels. Tonight, I will introduce you to one—Gandarias Taberna.

My appetite is not like one of those hefty, daring guys with their own TV show on the Food Network that eat their way around the world (though I wish I had their job!).  I'd like to consider myself as a "selective" eater that is willing to try anything that looks and smells good.  Oddities and strong fishy scents: stay away!  So don't worry, most of my recommendations are completely normal and can be considered "low risk" for any picky eaters. 

Gandarias Taberna (Discovered: June 2007)
Calle 31 de agosto, 23, 20004 San Sebastian - Donostia, Spain

So let me start off by telling you how we came across this place.  A friend of ours who had visited San Sebastian since the 1970s, a veteran tourist of this city, took us here our very first day in San Sebastian. Now I understand why he did so.  Since that day, I cannot tell you how many times my husband and I have had the usual Gandarias conversation that usually goes something like this...

Wife:  "Hun, I really miss San Sebastian.  I cannot wait to go again."
Husband:  "Oh, I know.  I love that place."
Wife:  "Hmm... what would I eat there if I were to arrive today?"
Husband: A duo and some champis.
Wife:   Oh my God! I know.  I want it now.

June 2011--Hubby squeezing his way to the bar at Gandrarias

June 2009-Me at Gandarias

In front of gandarias

And when we arrive to the city, on that very first night, we live out our fantasy.  It's a tradition.  How many times have we eaten there?  I don't know but it easily surpassed two dozen by this point.  My recommendation (and what all the locals do as well) is to order at the bar.  Get yourself about 5 pintxos and you should be set for the night.  The bartenders are the coolest and funniest guys.  My favorite one is the one with the earring at the very front (Jose I think).  They make fun of my husband’s accent year after year and he takes it like a pro. We have tried just about all their pintxos and here are our favorites in no particular order:

The hysterical and charismatic bartenders serving Sidra.

1. Pimientos Rellenos: Red sweet peppers stuffed with crab meat and then deep fried in a light and airy batter. Served HOT and FRESH!

2. Gambas:  Try any of their shrimp dishes.  You cannot go wrong.

3.  Solomillo:  Gandarias speciallizes in red meat and the solomillo is a medium cooked piece of red meat topped on a slice of seared green pepper served over mini-toasted bread.  The meat melts in your mouth and it unleashes the carnivore in you.  Disclaimer: one is never enough!

4.  Duo:  The perfect pintxo for the goat cheese lover!  Ball of goat cheese wrapped in Jamón Serrano served over a slice of cooked green pepper on a mini-toasted bread.  This warm little cheese ball explodes in your mouth and the rest is history.

Duo

5.  Champis (Short for Champiñones):  Slice of jamón on a toasted bread topped with a tall stack of warm mushrooms with a drizzle of salty sauce.  Ah-ma-zing.  Perhaps the most popular pintxo at Gandarias.  They fly like hotcakes.

Left: Pimiento Relleno, Right: Champis

Make sure to order their Txakoli!  It’s the best accompaniment to a plate of pintxos.

Stay tuned for la “Segunda Parte” to this post.  The next restaurant I will feature is littered with napkins and oyster shells!

El Teatro Generalife (The Generalife Theater)

In the Spanish city of Granada, resting proudly atop an Andalusian hill is the amazing Alhambra Palace.  Among all the beauty surrounding this mystical, ancient Arab palace lie the gardens also known as El Generalife (pronounced he-ne-ra-LEE-fe in Spanish not like "General Life" in English).  The maze-like gardens serve as the home to a variety of blooming roses in every imaginable color.  The sounds of running water tickles the ear as it streams from the fountains into square ponds.  At dusk, the silhouette of the city bakes in the glorious orange glow below your feet.  The view is greater than life.

And in the middle of such beauty lies a theater. A stage fully equipped with lights, sound, backdrops, props, curtains, and every tool imaginable for even the most advanced effects. 

In August 2007 and 2008 I had the pleasure of watching two performances in this unique theater.  The first was "Poeta en Nueva York" a dance concert where every piece was choreographed to musical poetry by the reknowned author, Federico Garcia Lorca.  The performance was so moving.  It captured the internal turmoil and culture shock Lorca faced when he left his home to study abroad in New York.  Among the two dances I still vividly remember are the "blood dance" and the "rain dance."  Video of "Poeta en Nueva York" (2007).  The second performance I was so privileged to watch was "Romancero Gitano," another show inspired by Lorca's poems.  This one however celebrates Lorca's Andalucia with phenomenal Flamenco and musical artistry.

The Generalife is an incredible sight to see but you are really lucky if you have the privilege of entering in the after hours to catch a glimpse of any performance in the Generalife Theater.  Here I am including a link to the Lorca Performances in the Generalife.  If you stop by Granada in the summer, this is just something so special that cannot be missed!

¡Hola y Bienvenidos!

I am excited to be posting the very first entry for my new blog, "For The Love Of Spain."  The purpose of this blog is to appreciate everything Spanish—the language, history, people, traditions, folklore, business, music, events, and cuisine.

Though I would not consider myself Spanish, but rather Hispanic, I was raised at a young age to appreciate my roots.  I can vividly remember my “abuelita” telling me stories about the first Largaespada¹ that settled in Nicaragua.  Since then, I have had a strong desire to learn more about Spain.  Fast forward two decades and I now have two degrees, countless experiences of studying abroad, and many years of teaching the language under my belt.  

Whether you are planning a trip, browsing to stimulate your mind (and senses), or reminiscing on a past Spanish memory, I hope you enjoy this blog. Feel free to search by topic or simply plunge into all the goodness this blog has to offer about a country so rich and diverse.  I appreciate comments, questions, feedback, experiences, and anecdotes.  

¡Bienvenidos!

¹ My mother's family name